MUSSELBURGH LINKS (THE OLD COURSE) - 14 POINTS
The 1st green at Musselburgh Links gives you a good taste of what’s to come
It seems a shame to have to give Musselburgh Links a score and rank it against other courses. This is a course from a different age and wherever it may be ranked on today’s criteria, it is definitely worth a visit.
They claim that this is the oldest golf course in the world. Mary Queen of Scots played nearby in the 16th century and the first recorded game over this ground was in 1672. The club is etched in the history books of the early years of the game. In 1874 The Open came to Musselburgh, and six times in total the Championship was played over the 9 holes here. Several societies used to play at Musselburgh Links, and when the Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers built their own Old Tom Morris course at Muirfield they took the Open Championship with them. The last Open was played here in 1889.
The nine holes remain largely unchanged from those days. While it is built on a sandy base, and certainly plays like a true links course, don’t expect any views of the sea - it is largely played within the racecourse at Musselburgh which was built around the course in 1816.
The course is short. It’s only 3,000 yards long and given the fast running ground and relative lack of rough it doesn’t play it’s yardage. The course wasn’t designed to be played with modern equipment, and hasn’t been ‘Tiger-proofed’ like other Open rota course over the years. Therefore I would thoroughly recommend you arrange to play with hickory clubs the first time you go around here - you need to order them in advance (it’s around £40 for a set). Top tip here - if there are 4 of you playing you only need to book 1 or 2 sets - no one will mind you sharing I suspect.
The first tee plays over the racing track and you are then pretty much playing within the track itself, with the exception of the famous 4th green and 5th hole. The 250 yard first plays as a par 4 with hickories or as a rather formidable par 3 for those playing with modern clubs. You will generally find Musselburgh to be pretty open from the tee, with excellent bunkering (some of it punishing) and some exciting sloping greens.
Needless to say there are quite a few features to enjoy. The third green has bunkers short and gorse long so precision is required. And then you come to the famous 4th hole. This is a long dogleg right par 4 where you have to tee off over the race track before then trying to negotiate the rails again as you approach one of the most interesting greens on the golf course. What really makes this hole stand out though is the historic Mrs Forman’s pub that sits just behind the green. Alas, the pub is no longer, but previously you would have been able to stop here for a drink during your round.
The 4th Green with Mrs Forman’s close behind
Mrs Forman’s was the scene of one of the most infamous golf incidents of the 19th Century. Old Tom Morris of St Andrews took on Wille Park of Musselburgh in a series of big money challenge matches. The last of these was played over Musselburgh Links. However, fair play went out the window as the partisan crowd interfered with Old Tom’s game all the way round to the point that the referee called a halt to proceedings for 24 hours and they stopped for refreshments at Mrs Forman’s. Willie Park refused to accept this decision and played the last holes on his own, claiming victory. Old Tom did the same the next day and chaos ensued!
This isn’t a course to worry about your score too much - with modern equipment, shooting your handicap should be pretty straightforward - so take the take the time to enjoy the history, enjoy the shaping of the holes and the movement of the greens. You’ll play the last few holes with the Edinburgh skyline in front of you which makes for a great backdrop.
I had heard the the condition at Musselburgh wasn’t fantastic. While it’s true it wasn’t the same standard as a top, Open rota course, it was absolutely fine. The fairways were running well and the greens true. Enjoying a round here is about managing your expectations and not judging the course by modern standards. If you approach it that way you will have a blast!
BOOKING THE COURSE
Musselburgh Links is now maintained and run by the local council. You’ll get all the information about how to book on their website here - www.musselburgholdlinks.co.uk
The course is open and available to play every day of the year apart from Christmas Day, Boxing Day and New Year’s Day. The only other thing to be aware of is that tee times will be limited on race days so as not to risk your ball hitting a horse!
It’s possible to book online, but it’s a bit complicated, so I would recommend just giving them a call. Green fees are very reasonable - £17.50 for adults during the week and £19.30 at the weekend with discounts for juniors and seniors. If you do want to play with hickories this will cost around £40 and you need to organise it in advance.
TOUR TIPS
Musselburgh is the perfect add-on to a trip to East Lothian. It’s only about 20 minutes drive from Gullane, and you virtually have to pass the door if you’re driving from Edinburgh airport or to East Lothian from anywhere in the rest of Scotland. Therefore, adding in 9 holes on the way to or from East Lothian makes huge sense.
CONTACT DETAILS
Musselburgh Links, The Old Golf Course
Stables Pavilion
Balcarres Road
Musselburgh
EH21 7SR
Web - www.musselburgholdlinks.co.uk
Phone - +44 131 653 5122
