NORTH BERWICK - 18 POINTS

There are so many great golf courses in East Lothian it's hard to pick a favourite. Muirfield has the history, Gullane has the panoramic views, and then there are myriad lower ranked but wonderfully fun courses. But if there was one course above all I would encourage everyone to play if they get the chance, it would be North Berwick.

Set in the heart of this delightful coastal town, the West Links at North Berwick is a wonderful place to play golf. 

The course has raced up the world top 100 lists. The Latest GOLF magazine has it up to number 37 in the world. The Planet Golf and Golf Course Architecture lists both have it in their top 20 courses in the world. It's understandable that people fall in love with the course and want to tell the world to play here. There are few courses in Scotland I would want to play before it.

North Berwick is not long (6,450 yards from the members’ tees) and it's not too punishing. Stay off the beach and it's likely you won't lose too many balls. It is, however, tremendous fun. As a visitor, the welcome I receive at North Berwick is as warm as any other course I have played - they are at pains to tell you that you are 'a member for the day' and it really feels like it.

The set-up at is basically an out and back, in a figure of eight. It may sound confusing but it makes sense when you're there! It means that you get the water in play on both the front and back nines.

The first hole runs parallel to the Firth of Forth and depending on the wind it may be a mid iron down the fairway before a short iron to the elevated green which butts onto the beach. One time I played here a dog came up from the beach, stole my partners' Pro V1 and ran off. Welcome to North Berwick!

The second is a potentially terrifying drive. The beach is directly on your right hand side and with a draw you have to drive over the beach to find a good line on the fairway. The problem can be that if the tide is up and the beach is full of school kids on an early summer afternoon you actually have to drive over their heads which is an unusual experience!

If you do end up on the beach, and the tide is out, then you can play it back up as this is a red-staked area rather than out of bounds.

The 3rd is a tough par 4, usually playing into the wind (like all the front 9 holes) and with a wall positioned 280 yards from the tee.  Survive that and you are rewarded with the innocuous sounding 153 yard par 3 4th. Short it may be, but the green is long and narrow and, depending on the wind, you could be hitting anything between a 9 iron or driver in!

Burns play a role in several of the greatest Scottish links - just think of the Swilken at St Andrews, or the Barry at Carnoustie. At North Berwick it is the Eil Burn that comes into play.

On the 7th hole there is an incentive to get as far down the fairway as possible with your tee shot so you can hit a lofted club into the green. But longer hitters need to be wary of going too far and ending up in the Burn from the tee. 

Any approach to the green that comes up short will end up wet, but with out of bounds to the left and three deep bunkers to the right this is a tricky shot. It’s a hole that is as challenging downwind as into the wind, especially to a front pin. With firm conditions, it’s almost impossible to stop the ball close.

8 and 9 are back to back par 5s and if the wind isn't blowing too hard you may manage to hold your own.

The 10th tee is a lovely spot with great views over the Forth and back to North Berwick. It’s a downhill par 3 where you will need to account for the change in wind, the drop in elevation and the visual trickery of dead ground behind the nearest bunker which may confuse you. 

You could travel the world, playing all the greatest courses, and you wouldn’t meet anything quite as unusual as the 13th at North Berwick, Pit. The smallest green on the course is found behind a stone wall. For the best line in you should be on the left side of the fairway,  playing down the length of the green. However, that brings the dune to the left and a bunker into play.

If you go down the right you will need to be precise with your approach shot in order to drop the ball just over the wall. Every day dozens of golfers will come up short and are faced with one of the most confounding shots in golf!

The 15th at North Berwick, Redan, is the most copied hole in the world of golf. Redan is a military term for a defensive fortification and there are several defences on this lengthy par 3.

Firstly, the long green slopes diagonally away from you, from right to left, sweeping the ball down. If you’re playing downwind then holding the green will be a challenge for any golfer. Secondly, there is a cavernous bunker guarding the green on the left. To add to the complexity of this hole you will find three pot bunkers to the right and it’s a semi-blind tee shot too. 

Across the globe this hole has been copied, but this may be the toughest Redan there is.

If the wind is behind you on the par 4 16th tee then clearing the burn shouldn’t be too much of a problem, but if there’s a breeze into you, choose your club carefully.

The real fun begins with your approach. The long, narrow, angled green is on two plateaus with a deep gully down the middle. Hitting and holding either portion in regulation is a tough ask although the front portion is the more accessible. Miss the green and the up and down is a really tough challenge on this crazy, wild and bewildering green. 

And so to 18. It's an easier version of the 18th at the Old Course - 285 yards long, a valley of sin in front of the green and the clubhouse behind. Oh yes, and cars park perilously close to the right hand side of the fairway to catch out all of these slicers amongst us. Great fun.

And that's really what North Berwick golf is all about. If they built it today people would call it gimmicky and ridiculous in parts. But it's not. It's a great course which I would get on a plane to play. The great thing is, I don't have to!

BOOKING THE COURSE

North Berwick has recently changed its visitor opening times and the course is now open for visitors every day bar Saturdays. However, times on those days are limited. All details are on their website. They are always efficient at responding and there may be some flexibility.

Green fees have risen quite considerably in recently years, it’s £240 a pop in the High Season now. In the winter months play is sometimes off of mats but the greens will be in great shape still and the green fee is reduced to £140.

Prices correct as of July 2023.

TOUR TIPS

A golf trip to East Lothian has a huge amount to offer. The courses are great, playable all year round and close together. Basing yourself in North Berwick is a good idea as there are a good range of pubs and restaurants in town and it's easy to get to Gullane, Muirfield, Dunbar and others. And make no mistake, this is a real golf town - no-one will blink at the sight of a group carrying their clubs into a pub for a post-game pint.

The Marine Hotel overlooks the 16th hole (and kids course) so is a really great setting. It’s recently been refurbished and promises a high standard of accommodation. From there it's a short (10 minutes) walk into town.

There are also a plethora of guest houses in the town itself which offer good value for money and lot of Airbnbs. You won't find it hard to get somewhere to buy a drink, there are plenty of pubs, and you'll find a good steak in The Grange, in the centre of town. If you want to go a bit more swanky Italian then Osteria is a good choice. For a little more cheap and cheerful then try Zitto on Quality Street or The Herringbone on the high street.

If you have a group looking for someone to stay then have a look at One Fairways in Gullane. I have a vested interested in this as it is a holiday let I have set up aimed at the golfer looking for luxury accommodation in the heart of Gullane.

When it comes to courses then Muirfield, North Berwick and Gullane 1 are the very top drawer and but you could happily add Renaissance, Archerfield (not cheap though!), Gullane 2 or 3, Dunbar, Luffness, The Glen or Longniddry. The list goes on and on!

CONTACT DETAILS

New Club House,
Beach Rd,
North Berwick,
East Lothian
EH39 4BB

Phone: 01620 892135
E-mail: bookings@northberwickgolfclub.com
Web: http://www.northberwickgolfclub.com/

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